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February 03, 2008
Kuna Yala
The San Blas Islands of Panama are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians. It has been called the best preserved culture and traditions of all the tribes in the Americas. The area is called Kuna Yala by the 55,000 Kunas that control the area; in fact, the Kunas do not like the name San Blas because it was given to them by the Spanish invaders.
The land is not divided into properties. There are no fences. Kunas are accepting of visitors, but settling and marrying is strictly prohibited. They are physically small, well-proportioned, energetic and healthy. They are peaceful, non-aggressive and crimeless.
The Kunas are organized within a strict hierarchy of tribal leaders. Each village has three “sailas” (chiefs) who hold the highest authority at the village level. The sailas are holders of the Kuna spiritualism, medicinal knowledge and history. Three “caciques” (high chiefs) rule the nation, each representing his part of the land; one cacique is elected supreme leader of the nation.
Their economic mainstay is the coconut trade. Every coconut has an owner. Trade is primarily with Colombia. They also trade crab, lobster and octopus caught by Kuna skin divers.
The women make “molas”, a style of reverse appliqué. These items are beautiful, colourful and depict animals, plants and geometric shapes. The Kunas travel in “ulus”, which are traditional dugout canoes.
Kuna ulu under sail
I have no photographs of the Kunas because they shun being photographed. I often struggle to photograph people I don’t know because I consider it to be an invasion of one’s soul. Friends provide tacit approval when they don’t object to having their photo taken. This is why I am not a photo-journalist.
The Kunas originated in the Darien Mountains on Panama’s mainland. They slowly migrated to the islands. The 17 and 18 centuries saw many incursions – the Spanish conquistadors, invaders, disease, other tribes, and pirates. In 1750, they became violent and massacred intruding settlers. In 1785, they signed a treaty with Spanish authorities of Gran Colombia allowing them to live in peace. After Panama’s independence in 1903, the Kunas remained loyal to Colombia. They killed Panamanian police and Kunas of mixed heritage in the rebellion of 21 February 1925. The flag of the rebellion was the swastika, long before it was used by Hitler and with no attachment. After the rebellion, the Kuna declared independence. When word reached Panama City, the government mounted a military campaign. The USS Cleveland intervened and relations with Panama are now stable. The Kunas became part of Panama in 1925 under the condition that the government recognize their tribal laws, traditions and customs. After passing its own constitution in 1945, they acquired full judicial administrative powers in 1953.
The Kunas are a truly unique and magical people. They are not suspicious, but friendly and curious. I saw no evidence of malnutrition, and their health looks better than most North Americans. As a former liveaboard sailor who felt strongly about living with little means, I worried about fuel, water, food and electricity. The Kunas have next to nothing, but live with a greater sense of community than I have witnessed in a long time. This may be the one last truly untouched cruising grounds in the world, and I saw evidence that things are changing. For example, the inhabitants of one island chased us away from snorkeling on a wreck because we wouldn’t go ashore to pay a fee. Still, $1.20 bought us 6 bananas and 6 loaves of bread. $11 bought us $30 worth of fruit and vegetables. My hope is that the Kunas protect what they have, and that anyone lucky enough to see this part of the world should do so with the utmost respect and admiration for the courage these people have to honour their traditions and culture.
Posted by dave at February 3, 2008 07:49 PM