March 26, 2008
Queen Mary 2
You may recall that Chis and I saw Cunard’s three queens here in New York. The Queen Elizabeth 2, the Queen Mary 2, the Queen Victoria, and a lot of rain. Then, when I was out for a run in Aruba, I spotted the Queen Victoria at the dock. It seemed like destiny when, on a lark one evening, I went on Cunard’s website to discover that they had an Easter Getaway from New York to Eleuthra in the Bahamas.
So, we went.
I had great constipation over what to pack. Thursday night was casual elegant (which, by New York standards, can mean just about anything). Friday night was formal (ie. black feckin’ tie). Saturday semi-formal (suit & tie). Sunday casual elegant again.
I ditched my tux when we moved onto Platina, and haven’t replaced it. It was a double-breasted job, and at 5-foot something, made me look short and fat. But I can put a bow-tie with a stunning white shirt and look like the Monopoly guy in a dark blue suit!
Thursday evening’s dinner was a sideshow. Casual elegant included sweat pants, velour track suits, tank tops, and flip flops. Now, I realize that I am bordering on the edge of snobbery, but people, even by New York City standards, tank tops and flip flops are not “casual elegant”.
We made the best of things, and by Friday night’s black tie gala, I felt, despite my funky midnight purple bowtie and stunningly gorgeous white shirt, underdressed. Nevertheless, we were the hottest looking gay couple on the ship. (This isn’t saying much on a ship with 2,700 people).
As things warmed up as we moved south, we were early to the deck chairs for some full-on reading. Soon, we arrived in the Bahamas, and I awoke before dawn to enjoy the sunrise. The ship’s landfall was on the southeastern tip of Eleuthra, about 20 miles west of Little San Salvador. We passed through this very stretch of sea in December 2006 on our way to spend Christmas in George Town, Exuma on Platina. There is a relatively shallow shelf between Eleuthra and Little San Salvador, and I was most interested to see how a ship drawing 25 feet could make it through. To be clear, I was shitting my pants with our 7-foot draft.
The captain went very slowly.
We went ashore at Eleuthra, and when we saw the sea of sunbeds, buffet lunches, macramé pot holders, and beer-swizzling at 11am, we returned to the ship to read quietly in the breeze.
In all, it was wonderful to be at sea, feel the wind, breathe the sea air, and relax a bit. Chis couldn’t check his email on his Blackberry, and my condo worries were far and distant. Our only worry was whether we would finish our books before the end of the cruise, sleep enough, and relax.
We succeeded on all accounts.
BUT, check with me before you decide to go on the QM2. I have important and valuable advice!
Posted by dave at 08:58 PM | Comments (0)
April 10, 2006
Peace & Plenty Inn, George Town
After a lovely day of sailing with David & Marian, we returned to the anchorage off George Town. Wonderfully wicked thunderstorms began rolling through just after sunset, and we watched the light show and listened to the thunder. As West Coast Canadians, David & Marian had never seen such an incredible display of Mother Nature’s temper. Marian, huddled in the companionway, kept hollering “holy doodle” at the flash of each burst of lightening. It was very exciting.
By the time it was over, several boats around us had popped off their anchors and set adrift in the anchorage. Many moved and reset. One burst of wind hit us broadside and heeled the boat about 35 degrees. It was sudden and quite startling. We let out more anchor chain. A lot more.
We had a very late dinner and went to bed shortly before midnight. I slept poorly, as the winds kept the boat hobby-horsing, and the anchor chain rang like a church bell just over my head. Chis, of course, can sleep on an airplane taxiing down a runway.
With our bags finally packed around noon, after a lovely run on the beach, and a healthy breakfast, we loaded up the dinghy with half of our bags and headed to town to find a room for the night. (Our flight is very early tomorrow, and the though of the 4 of us in a tiny dinghy with all of our gear at 5am was just not a good idea, particularly with the forecast of more storms).
Heaving the bags out of our cabin and up into the cockpit was more than I could handle. My eyes started to well. I am always embarrassed to cry, except around Chis, and I certainly didn’t want David & Marian to see me cry. I bit the inside of my cheek, held back the tears and carried on.
We left David & Marian to do emails in George Town while we scoured for a room. The Peace & Plenty Inn seemed like a good bet (of two possibilities). We threw our stuff in the room, and headed back to the boat for a second load.
Back on the boat, we loaded up the last of the bags, and Chis gave me a big hug. He knew what was about to happen. It hit me like a ton of bricks. My mind flooded with all the images of our journey.
15 months ago, and 10,534.3 nautical miles ago, we stepped onto Platina, and stepped completely out of our element. I am very proud of what we have accomplished, the courage we have aroused in ourselves, the things we have learned about the world, and our heightened respect for nature.
It was like losing a best friend. We will never see her again, and yet we have depended on her for our safety and security. She is as much a part of our lives and any friend or family member, and perhaps more so because we relied on each other to get us to where we want to go safely and unharmed.
I wept. And wept. And wept.
In the dinghy, sitting on top of our backpacks, we kissed the ends of our fingers and touched Platina’s hull one last time. I said “please keep David & Marian safe”. To Chis, I said “I feel like I should say a prayer”. Chis said simply “God bless Platina”. I wept some more. And some more. And I am weeping again now.
Farewell, Platina.
Hello, New York City.
Posted by dave at 12:06 PM | Comments (0)
April 06, 2006
The Tuna
Chis, Marian and David hauling in the tuna.
Posted by dave at 02:56 PM | Comments (0)
Adrift
It’s 7pm. Chis and I are in George Town, Great Exuma Island, sitting in the cockpit of Kilkea II (formerly Platina) enjoying cool drinks, blazing hot sunshine, beautiful reflections on the water, and our books. Despite SPF 30, we are sunburned. It still feels strangely like our boat.
We can tell we are getting closer to living on land, because we have been running like fiends. We run 5-6 days a week now, at least 5 miles each day. We are svelt. Pumped. Slim, trimmed and ready for the summer BBQ.
Chis is reading Elizabeth George’s latest book “A Traitor to Memory”. He says Inspector Lynley is a lively character (but really likes the Barbara Avers character). I have been reading “Adrift” by Tristan Jones.
“Adrift” is one of many books written by one of the world’s great solo circumnavigating sailors, as he becomes adrift on land trying to find work to get his sailboat Sea Dart out of British customs. He is penniless, jobless, and trying to make enough money to go back to sea. He discovers that he must contrive his stories to sell his books.
Perhaps I should start writing my own “Adrift”.
David and Marian (Happy Buyer People) have gone to walk the beach. Off they went in the dinghy, and we smiled, feeling proud that we have been training them well.
Today was a watershed day. This was it. The end of the chapter. We booked our flights from George Town to Guadalajara, Mexico. (We should arrive before the end of the month.) I sat in the cool air-conditioned travel agent office on the second floor of a hurricane pummeled cinder-block building in the centre of town. It used to be pink, but with its new roof, they painted it beige. Too bad. It was the only way we knew how to find the dinghy dock. She asked me if I wanted to book the tickets. I said yes, then became crazed with details. Perhaps living at sea had made my brain mush. Maybe I wasn’t ready to commit to our departure. I hummed, hawed. The terribly relaxed Bahamian woman waited patiently for my decision. What she didn’t realize is that I didn’t want to leave. She had no idea of my anguish.
I became a New Yorker. My inside head said “Dave, make a decision”. Chis was down the road at the internet shack (grocery store), wedged between the fridge and a box of packaged flour. Do I need to consult him, or just book it? I took the plunge. I booked it. I wept.
We will spend a week with Chis’ parents in their new home in Ajijic, Mexico. Then off to Playa del Carmen, where they kill Canadian tourists, and wed our friends www.mattandali.com. On April 22nd, we will fly to Toronto briefly, then on to New York City for the next chapter of our lives. I am sooooo excited about living in one of the greatest cities of the world.
We will be landlubbers again. I might get nauseous.
We will step off Platina for the last time on Monday, April 10th, and I know already that I will shed several tears. I will cry, proud of what we have accomplished, the things we have learned about ourselves, the courage we have found. I will cry with fear and excitement for David and Marian – fear for their journey, and excitement for the things they will discover about themselves.
Neil Young:
“I could live inside a teepee,
I could die in penthouse 35
You could lose me on the freeway
I would still make it back alive
As long as we can sail away
As long as we can sail away”
Posted by dave at 12:03 PM | Comments (0)
April 05, 2006
George Town, Exuma
Well, who would have thought we would be back in George Town. We left Port Lucaya in light winds, motoring along. David (he-buyer) put out a fishing rod, and within about 5 minutes, caught a lovely yellowfin tuna. We guess about 20 pounds. The freezer is full!
Around the north side of Eleuthra, we picked up some nice wind and started to sail. Beautiful sail. We reached the entrance to George Town earlier than expected, and had to wait for high tide to enter the unmarked shallow channel.
We had the anchor down by 1:30pm, the dinghy inflated by 2:30pm, and the whole lot of us off to the Chat'n'Chill for Goombay Smash and Kalik beer. Then, crash. Three days of limited sleep caught up with all of us.
We woke just before dinner, and Marian (she-buyer) made a wonderful barbequed pork tenderloin. None of us lasted too long after dinner.
We'll wait here for weather before carrying on.
Posted by dave at 03:59 PM | Comments (0)
March 26, 2006
A little news goes a long way...
We have sold our darling Platina, who by the time we deliver her with her new owners to the Virgin Islands, she will have taken us over 12,000 nautical miles. 16 countries. The places we have seen, the things we have learned. Nothing can replace this experience.
Except maybe living in New York.
Chis has accepted a position heading Marketing for Fiduciary Trust, a high net worth investment company in New York City. Yes, we are moving to New York at the beginning of May.
The next chapter unfolds...
If you plan to visit, bring socks. We expect to be living in a shoe.
Meanwhile, we continue sailing and training the new owners until the middle of April, so keep your ears on the Platina website for more pictures and stories.
Posted by dave at 08:39 AM | Comments (5)
March 24, 2006
N26.3 W 78.4 Port Lucaya, Bahamas
Two cold fronts, within 24 hours of each other, opened a very short window on Thursday evening. The winds would clock quickly from the north after the first front passed, and become north again by late Friday afternoon. Port Lucaya, about 10 miles from Freeport, is about the only place in the Bahamas we have not been. It is on our route for the Virgin Islands, so we decided to stop in. The channel is very shallow, and the marina recommended entering at high tide, about 3pm yesterday. The weather and the tides suggested a late departure from Fort Lauderdale to arrive just before high tide (better to run aground on a rising tide than a falling one).
We left Fort Lauderdale at 7:30pm. The wind was light but building from the north. The first front had just passed. North winds and a northbound Gulf Stream are a bad combination. The Gulf Stream runs about 4 knots – that’s a lot – we alter our course by almost 40 degrees to correct for its impact. North winds against the current kick up horrible big lumpy mashed-potato seas.
We decided to head out far enough to see how bad it would be. It wasn’t too bad, so we carried on. The wind finally started to clock around, and by 2:30am, we were sailing under full sail, rather than motoring into a head wind. Finally out of the Gulf Stream by day-break, we entered the Northwest Providence Channel. The wind picked up. The seas picked up. We were flying along, going way too fast for high tide. We shortened sail to slow the boat down, and started going in circles to kill time.
The channel into the marina was not that bad. We think the lowest water we saw was 0.5 metres under the keel. Not something to be done at low tide, but we probably could have done it mid-tide.
We cleared into Customs & Immigration and by 4pm we enjoyed the awards of overnight passages – a cold cold beer. The boat was caked in salt, so I quickly rinsed down the boat before the sleep deprivation set in. A lovely barbeque of filet mignon, a big salad, and some garlicky potatoes. I was out like a light at about 9pm.
It was an invigorating sail, full of rough seas and too much wind. Something we would normally have waited out. But the front we road out on was a strong one, and the wind would have blown from the north for 3 or 4 days in Fort Lauderdale. In hindsight, we should have taken this front all the way to the Virgin Islands, but we were just not quite ready.
We will hang out here and wait for the next cold front.
Posted by dave at 08:26 AM | Comments (0)
January 21, 2006
Next Stop: Fort Lauderdale
Lyford Cay has been lovely. We connected with friends and had a wonderful time running through the neighbourhood looking at the houses of Sean Connery, Ted Rogers, Peter Nygard, and others. We have decided to skip Port Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island and return to Fort Lauderdale to haul the boat out for its annual inspection, clean the bottom, etc.
We plan to leave early tomorrow morning, sail across the shallow Great Bahama Bank north of Mackie Shoal, then across the Florida Straits to Lauderdale. The weather looks good, and we hope to enjoy an incredible sail. We should arrive Monday in time for tea.
The Bahamas, despite its shallow water, is a place that we have grown fond of. We were here for a month on our northbound journey, and this time, we have been here 6 weeks.
Posted by dave at 04:43 PM | Comments (0)
January 17, 2006
Lyford Cay, New Providence Islands, Bahamas
Well, the window opened, and we jumped. Straight into rough seas and strong winds. Not exactly what the weather predictions suggested. Rough seas on the Exuma Bank are bad news. In a little more than 2 metres of water, rolling off a 2 metre swell can place the keel firmly on the bottom. We didn't touch once.
We found the entrance to the Lyford Cay Marina (we were here in late June), thanks to a dive boat placed firmly on the reef (which wasn't there in late June). Placed there thanks to a failed engine and 60 knots winds during the same storm we endured in Exuma Park two days ago. It was disturbing to see the surf crash all over the boat, as we wiggled our way into the channel in 35 knot winds.
We have several friends to visit here, the running is excellent, the grocery provisioning heavenly. Next weather window, we will head north for Port Lucaya, just east of Freeport on Grand Bahama Island.
The Bahama Islands were named from the spanish 'baja mar' or shallow sea. No blinkin' kidding!
Posted by dave at 06:37 PM | Comments (0)
January 14, 2006
N24.2 W76.4 Warderwick Wells, Exuma Park
The cold front advanced quickly off the Florida coast, and we planned two options – Warderwick Wells on a mooring, a 4-hour sail, or Highbourne Cay Marina, a 10-hour sail across the shallow Exuma Bank. We chose Warderwick Wells. In the heart of Exuma Land & Sea Park, this is one of my favourite places we have ever been. Isolated, desolate, lush, with plenty of sea life and birds to see. The park extends for miles, and it is strictly prohibited to take ANYTHING! No shells, no catching fish, nothing. And nowhere to leave garbage, nowhere to buy groceries, nowhere to eat a meal. Which means everything is as it should be.
The front passed early this morning. First, winds gusting to 30 knots. Then, heavy rain, lightening and thunder. Now, the skies have cleared, the temperature has dropped slightly, and the winds are brisk and from the north. Perfect for sailing south. But not north.
We will wait here for the northerlies to pass, probably by Monday night. Tuesday, we will likely move on to Highbourne Cay, then Wednesday to Nassau.
Posted by dave at 06:22 PM | Comments (0)
January 12, 2006
Chis at the Chat'n'Chill, Georgetown, Exuma
Posted by dave at 06:32 PM | Comments (0)
The Beach at Stocking Island, Georgetown, Exuma
Posted by dave at 06:31 PM | Comments (0)
Georgetown Straw Market
Posted by dave at 06:28 PM | Comments (0)
Path to the Beach, Georgetown, Exuma
Posted by dave at 06:27 PM | Comments (0)
Georgetown Anchorage from the Hill
Posted by dave at 06:24 PM | Comments (0)
Farewell Georgetown
We arrived here on Christmas Eve, and almost 3 weeks later we were sad to leave. We made several new friends, dispensed plenty of advice to southbound sailors, and grew very fond of the place. We all know each other by first name, nick name, or boat name. Nobody ever talks about the careers we left behind to enjoy this bohemian life. We shared stories about favourite places, dreams and a few disastrous mistakes. There is no shame in admitting mistakes in this crowd. We have all been there.
Georgetown is somewhat of a dangerous place, because it gives you a false sense of security and comfort. It is so familiar, so friendly, you begin to believe that everywhere is just like it. The truth is, it is a unique place for boaters. Rarely have we found the sense of community, friendship and helpfulness.
And with all of that, it was time to go. We have friends in Nassau that we promised to see, so we will head north. An approaching cold front will make the journey challenging. Finding shelter from west and north winds in the Bahamas is not easy. Careful planning, indeed!
As we head north, we yearn to follow our new friends south. And we may yet! We wish all of our southbound friends fair winds. May the wind be at your back, and keep the keel in the water!
Posted by dave at 06:21 PM | Comments (0)
January 03, 2006
I'm All Alone...
“I’m all alone, there’s no one here besides me …” sings the unflappable Donkey in Shrek. Chis left Monday for a brief but important trip to Toronto – an unfortunate funeral of a close family friend. I would have gone, too, except for the fact that we are 150 miles from a marina that can take our draft of 7 feet. We are anchored in the harbour at Georgetown, Exuma.
At first, it terrified me. On anchor, alone. What if the wind kicked up? What if the anchor starts to drag? What if I can’t start the generator to charge the batteries? What if the water-maker doesn’t work? What if the dinghy breaks lose? What if…
The first night, I didn’t sleep. I worried about everything. Did I put the anchor light on? Would the anchor chain break? Would we drag and beach the boat? Or hit another boat?
The second night, I slept like a baby. I realized that none of these things is controllable. Like, what if the furnace blows up? What if the pipes freeze? What if I forgot to shovel the sidewalk? And I also realized that Georgetown has an awesome community of boaters (last count 134 boats on anchor), ready on VHF Channel 68 to help.
This afternoon, I go to the meeting on Volleyball Beach for Southbound Boaters. To share experiences, watch weather, etc. Then, off to Por Fin with Mike and Judy for spaghetti dinner. And to review their southbound plans. And to lose a game of chess. Tomorrow, dinner with Sherri and Doug on Bad Boy. And to review their plans to head for the Turks & Caicos Islands.
There are 28 boats heading south, and probably 25 are headed to Trinidad and Venezuela for hurricane season. The rest of us are planning only as far as the Turks & Caicos, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. Regardless, the voyage from here to the Virgin Islands is into the prevailing winds. Sailboats can’t sail into the wind. We all watch for cold fronts. After the passing of a cold front, the winds shift to the north. A cold front is passing over us this morning, and the winds are already in the northwest. Not much wind, though. 3 boats are leaving tomorrow for various places south. A second cold front will pass over us on the weekend and extend all the way down to Puerto Rico. We may go on the back side of that one. Oh, fickle weather.
Posted by dave at 03:30 PM | Comments (0)
December 26, 2005
Beached
The wind kicked up Christmas morning from nothing to about 25 knots. Junkanoo was on in Georgetown. It gets going at about 4am and many of the people in the anchorage went in to enjoy.
Such as the people from this boat. The entire community got out to help them kedge off the beach at high tide.
Posted by dave at 01:10 PM | Comments (0)
Boxing Day
We skipped breakfast this morning, still full from Christmas dinner. The humidity dropped with the cold front and the winds blew like mad. Laundry day!
That nasty detail out of the way (laundry is like vacuuming – there just is no good time for it, no fun doing it, and gets in the way of everything else fun), we went to the Chat’n’Chill. A beach bar. Shoes optional.
We met a couple from Ohio heading south to Trinidad. Mike and Judy on Por Fin (Spanish for “finally”). We shared advice on places to go, places to avoid, etc. While still infants in our quest, it felt good to share. A true community.
Back to the boat for a swim, shower and general r&r.
Posted by dave at 12:21 PM | Comments (0)
December 25, 2005
Christmas Day
I woke early (what a surprise) and made coffee. Oh, sweet nectar of the morning! Chis slept until 8. We agreed not to exchange gifts. Sharing this journey was too precious to be spoiled by diamond tiaras and knick-knacks.
We enjoyed champagne and orange juice in the cockpit, and cranked up the satellite phone. Let’s see, there’s London, England, Toronto, Winnipeg, Mexico, and Vancouver to call.
Then breakfast, followed by a dinghy ride to the beach for a walk. We returned to the boat for a snooze, and early preparations of our Christmas “turkey”. Actually, a 4-pound roasting chicken. We would never fit a turkey in our tiny oven. The chicken was a stretch. And to quell my fear of fire, we bought “oven bags” in Florida. While completely against my purist spirit, these disposable, probably never biodegradable plastic bags really work! They keep the juices (aka grease) from starting a fire with the gas flame at the back of the oven. But they also keep the juices (aka fat) in! Brilliant, and DELICIOUS!
We had a wonderful Christmas dinner in the cockpit, with no wind, lots of mosquitoes, and sultry Christmas tunes. We continued our Hollywood journey, and watched “One Magic Christmas”. I cried. Chis claims he didn’t.
The wind kicked up at 4am with the onset of another cold front. From no wind to 25 knots in no time. At 5am, we let out more anchor chain.
Posted by dave at 12:20 PM | Comments (0)
December 24, 2005
Sunset, Christmas Eve, Georgetown
Posted by dave at 01:09 PM | Comments (0)
N23.3 W75.4 Georgetown
Christmas Eve!
This was a tricky voyage. We left Great Guana Cay at low tide (scary!) and HAD to arrive in Georgetown around high tide. (We never like to do anything AT high tide, because if we ground, there is no deeper water to get us out of our pickle). To do this, we had to sail at the speed of light. We really wanted to be in Georgetown for Christmas – this place is called Chicken Harbour for a good reason – many boats plan for the Caribbean and get just his far, and chicken out. That means lots of boats and lots of community.
We wiggled our way into Georgetown shortly after high tide with the combined miracle of wind and diesel. We radioed ahead for local knowledge of the shallow shoals and reefs. Georgetown Marine Services obliged with great advice. We followed it closely, and saw nothing less than a foot and a half under our keel. There were days when this would have put bricks firmly in my shorts, but with age and experience, these things are character builders.
We hopped in the dinghy to drop trash, and see if the local grocery, Exuma Markets, was open! Bonus! Fresh fruit and vegetables!
Christmas Eve on Platina: We put 300 tiny lights up to the top of the mast, and hung our code flags that spell “Happy Holidays” under the mizzen sheet. We settled in for a meal of cumin chick peas and garlic snapper. And movies. “A Christmas Story”. I am convinced that Ralphie is just like Chis as a little boy!
Many other boats strung Christmas lights, and it was a joy to sit back and take it in!
Christmas Eve was a recovery night after a few days at sea. Nice.
Posted by dave at 12:19 PM | Comments (0)
December 23, 2005
Sunset, Great Guana Cay, Exuma
Posted by dave at 01:08 PM | Comments (0)
N24.1 W76.2 From One Great Guana Cay to Another
While not exactly snow shoveling weather, the Abacos were cool and rainy, and we began to tire of the cold fronts that rolled off the US southeast coast – about every three days. We would follow north winds on the backside of a cold front south to the Exuma Cays. Closer to the Tropic of Cancer, bound to be warmer.
We left Great Guana Cay, Abaco in good winds but really rolly seas. The wind died, but the seas kept up until about 3am when we rounded Palmetto Point, the eastern tip of Eleuthra Island. Then the seas and the wind died, and we got bored of the sound of the engine. We polished shackles and stainless steel.
While we had planned to get to Georgetown in daylight, neither wind, seas, nor tides were cooperating. We decided to adjust course and head for Great Guana Cay, Exuma. Through the narrow rocky Dotham Cut, we anchored in time to run into Black Point in the dinghy to get last-minute Christmas provisions. We assumed that grocery stores were closing for the holidays.
It’s better in the Bahamas. It’s gooder in Guana.
The two grocery stores in Black Point were already closed, so we dropped into Lorraine’s Café. Lorraine was there. We sought her advice – cold beer, head of lettuce, tomato? She sold us 12 cold Kaliks, packed 6 in a plastic bag with ice and the rest in another bag. As for lettuce and tomato, she was reluctant. She emerged from the kitchen with half a head of iceberg lettuce and a ripe tomato. A gift, in exchange for telling people about her little café. We tipped her well for the beer, and took two for the dinghy ride back to the boat. Her generosity was incredible, and we will tell lots of people about the place. We hope to go back, and if we do, we will take half a head of iceberg lettuce and a ripe tomato.
Favours must be returned.
Posted by dave at 12:19 PM | Comments (0)
July 02, 2005
N25.4 W79.1 North Bimini, Great Bahama Bank
Day 2 of our journey across the Great Bahama Bank. This one was a bit of a teeth-grinding, nail-biting experience. With extra careful planning (?!), we passed through the shallowest part of the bank at low tide. Well done! Of course, the charts warn about shifting sandbars, sand ridges that change with weather and tides, etc. The water got so shallow, much shallower than the charts suggested, we thought we were in the twilight zone. We had chosen to anchor on the bank side of North Cat Cay, and pass through the narrow cut the next morning for Florida. Having been spooked by the shallower than shallow water, we changed plans and headed north to North Bimini. This plan would give up the advance on the Gulf Stream, but would give us safer passage off the bank in the morning.
We anchored in absolutely pristine turquoise water on a sand shelf, and tucked in for the night. Dave baked banana bread with the blackening bananas that were starting to attract flies. He then proceeded to fall sound asleep at 6pm. He awoke at 10pm with a cough and sore throat. Blast!
Posted by dave at 07:40 AM | Comments (0)
July 01, 2005
N25.3 W78.2 Great Bahama Bank
We left Lyford Cay with no wind, and motored across to the Northwest Channel entrance to the Great Bahama Bank. Our journey across the bank would be about 60 nautical miles. We entered the bank around 4pm and went from kilometers under the keel to 2-3 metres under the keel. We decided that with the calm weather, we would anchor on the bank for the night, rather than carrying on in shallow water watching for coral heads in the dark. We dropped anchor, got cozy with our books and watched the storms to the south. We soon noticed a sailboat coming straight for us.
“Union Jack”, a ketch-rigged sailboat like ours, came along side and asked if we had anchored for the night, and would we mind if they joined us. Of course, in the middle of the Great Bahama Bank with no land in sight, company is welcome. Turned out that they are from Scarborough, and were heading for Miami.
Later in the evening, a motor vessel was passing our stern and radioed the two sailboats anchored off his starboard beam. Union Jack wasn’t answering, so Dave got on to ask what he wanted. “Green Flash” just wanted to check to make sure we were okay, didn’t need anything, and to give his prognosis of the weather. Dave said we were sacrificing goats, our last attempt at praying for wind.
Incidentally, at the very last second when the sun sets on the ocean, there is a green flash. Many claim it does not exist, but we have both seen it. Hence the name of our friendly motor vessel. Dave has agreed to take back every naughty thing he has ever said about motor vessels. Oh, except for the pair that passed either side of us yesterday in the narrow entrance to the bank, whose wakes combined to give us a wee scare! Krikey!
Posted by dave at 07:37 AM | Comments (0)
Lyford Cay, CANADA DAY!
HAPPY CANADA DAY! We have definitely overstayed our welcome here at Lyford Cay Marina. The woman in the office rolls her eyes when we go in to check email, and to check on our Fedex delivery. The wind vane arrived today, and Dave went up the mast to install it. We had to spin the boat in two perfect circles to align it, and then calibrate by pointing directly into the wind. Success! By the time all was done, it was 2pm, and too late to leave for Chub Cay. So we stayed another day.
We have really enjoyed our stay here. Templeton’s Bahamas offices are within eye site of the marina. Chis reconnected with some of his old colleagues. David Sussman was the ultimate gentleman, inviting us to dinner at the Ocean Club, and then for a wander through the Atlantis hotel and casino complex. Tacky defined! Then to his home the next night for BBQ steaks (mmmmmmm! A luxury when living on a sailboat). George Morgan took Chis to the Lyford Cay Club for lunch while Dave obsessed about polishing topsides and stainless steel.
Oh, and Lloyd and Ozzie fixed the bow thruster!
So, we leave tomorrow for the Great Bahama Bank, and on to Fort Lauderdale – a 150ish nautical mile journey across the Bank with a little more than 1 metre under the boat.
Chis admitted today that he was looking forward to civilization. Dave questioned whether South Florida was, in fact, civilization. Any suggestions on what to do in South Florida? Chis’ sister, Kate, suggested we would likely find a matching belt for our golf shoes.
Posted by dave at 07:35 AM | Comments (0)
June 30, 2005
The New Wind Vane
Posted by dave at 08:10 AM | Comments (0)
Mast Climbing
This is a curious photo of Chis from about mid-way up our main mast (we have two masts). Dave was on his way up to replace the wind vane. It was a LOT of work climbing all that way!
Posted by dave at 08:06 AM | Comments (0)
June 26, 2005
Lyford Cay, Day 2
E.P. Taylor, the famous Canadian businessman, and owner of the world-famous race horse, Northern Dancer, bought the land at Lyford Cay and developed it into a pristine, almost unreal, gated community on the west end of New Providence Island, about 20 minutes from Nassau. The marina is stunning, and the service is impeccable. (At Rodney Bay Marina in St Lucia, we paid US$0.60 per foot per day. Lyford Cay is US$3.15 per foot per day. We are motivated to move on.)
We went for a run this morning through the community and looked at houses. Really a beautiful neighbourhood. It being Sunday, people were arriving in their Sunday best for church. We carried on, sweating profusely in the late morning sun and humidity.
Having slept like babies last night in air-conditioned slumber, we decided to take today off. Do nothing. Maybe wander to the grocery store to see if they will grind coffee beans for us. Otherwise, chill, read, etc. No boat scrubbing, stainless steel polishing or topside cleaning. However, restless Dave will likely climb into the dinghy to scrub the diesel exhaust smudge off the side of the boat. None of the other boats at Lyford Cay have one quite like it. We are embarrassed.
We found a replacement wind vane in Abaco, and it is on its way. Maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe the day after…
Posted by dave at 07:32 AM | Comments (0)
June 25, 2005
Lyford Cay, New Providence Island, Bahamas
Dave awoke to his weather and coffee obsession, and discovered that the tropical wave was developing into a possible tropical cyclone just north of us. The anchorage we were in was no place to be in a storm. And we needed a new wind gauge. We started calling marinas.
Most likely to have us was “Atlantis”. A big, bizzilion-room casino-metropolis. No room for the beleaguered Platina and crew. Least likely to have space for us was Lyford Cay (a bit of an exclusive hoity-toity place). They agreed to give us one night. So, with no other bad-weather alternative in sight, we tucked in to wait out the latest storm, and to find a new wind gauge. We docked without incident, and proceeded to ask if we could stay a few days. They agreed.
Ahhhhh. The first time we have been in a marine since Tortola. How special is this? Plugged into shore power, we can get the batteries up to 100% (big deal? – they haven’t been above 91% since Tortola), and we can run AIR CONDITIONING! And, we can sleep without one eye open on the anchor.
The search for a replacement wind gauge is underway. We think we may have found one in Abaco, and will hopefully get it on Tuesday, earliest.
Posted by dave at 07:30 AM | Comments (0)
June 24, 2005
N25.0 W77.3 Delaport Bay, New Providence Island, Bahamas
Just outside Nassau Harbour, we dropped anchor around 5pm. We had arrived later than expected because our first plan was to go to a lovely anchorage in West Bay. Our electronic chart and our paper chart were in conflict. One suggested plenty of water, the other suggested no water. We approached, saw the water getting very shallow, and decided to play it safe and head to Delaport Bay. This would be a temporary solution, as we had lost our wind gauge and needed to get it replaced. Dave was prepared to go to the top of the mast only in a settled marina, not on a rolly-polly anchorage.
Posted by dave at 07:28 AM | Comments (0)
June 22, 2005
N24.4 W76.5 Highborne Cay, Bahamas
Albert from “Bonnie” suggested that we were crazy to head north to Freeport, then fight the Gulf Stream across to Florida. Better to cross the shallow banks with your deep draft keel, he said. Then use the current to get to Florida. He was right, and Dave poured over the charts to find a new course. So, we changed our plans. We would cross Norman’s Spit at high tide, with 0.2 metres under the keel. Oh, goody!
The amended plan involved a brief stop at Highborne Cay before crossing the Exuma Bank to Nassau. An uneventful passage, and we dropped anchor, went ashore to get groceries, check internet, fill diesel jerry cans (we can’t get near the fuel dock with our draft), drop garbage (US$5 per bag, 2 bag maximum – we had not dropped garbage in 6 days). We met a local fisherman at the dock, and bought a lovely fresh grouper for dinner. Holy cow, that was good! Red onions, capers, olive oil. Wasabi potatoes and salad.
We stayed an extra night, and started to get news of a tropical wave spinning north out of the Western Caribbean. It was time to go. We planned an early morning departure, wanting to arrive at our destination at high tide.
Posted by dave at 07:27 AM | Comments (0)
June 21, 2005
Bahamas Learnings, Bad Weather & Attempt Number Three
Two things have amazed (and surprised) us about the Bahamas: shallow water, and HUGE tidal currents. We are used to setting our anchor into the wind, with the wind driving us back off the anchor. No, no, no. In the Bahamas, you set your anchor into the current, and hope that when the tide changes, you don’t wrap the chain around the keel. Better still, you set one anchor down-current, then another anchor up-current, and swing slightly on the two.
We had planned to leave today, changing our plans to head across the Exuma Bank to Nassau, rather than north to Eleuthra. As part of his early morning, pre-Chis routine, Dave checked weather to discover rain, thunderstorms and a ridge stalling over us. We decided to stay put and take one last chance getting to the ranger station.
We left at 10am, expecting a grueling hike, and walked along the windward east side of the island before turning inland. An hour and a half later, we were there, checked email, donated to the Park, (updated the website), bought a t-shirt, and moved on. We returned at 3pm. We were exhausted, sunburned, and thirsty.
This is a place that has touched our hearts. Tranquil, protected, beautiful, outstanding snorkeling, protection from virtually any wind. Highly recommended. The cays are covered in mocking birds, lizards, iguanas, and laughing gulls. The waters are littered with fish, lobster, sharks, octopi, grouper, conch, etc. This is a place to be seen. By the way, you can only see it by boat. We count this on the short list of places on the planet to see again before we die.
Posted by dave at 07:24 AM | Comments (0)
June 20, 2005
Stupid Busted Bow Thruster
The day started simply – scrambled eggs, toast, coffee, etc. Still here in the glorious Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park, we heard that the ranger station on the far side of the island had internet. Yesterday, we had tried to hike the west (leeward) coast, and after an hour we saw the ranger station, which looked to be another 50 miles away. We decided to abandon the hike given the sweltering heat and terrain. We returned to the comfort of Platina.
You would think that the Bahamas, flat and wind-blown as they are, would be an easy hike. Oh, no, no, no! Limestone cliffs, coral reefs, poisonous trees. It was exhausting! And that’s a lot to be said for the relatively fit Platina crew.
Albert and Linda from “Bonnie” told us that it was easier to dinghy to the fourth beach up the windward side of the island, then walk across to the ranger station on the other side. So, around 11am, we set off in the dinghy. We hit the wide open Atlantic Ocean complete with big swells, found what we thought was the fourth beach, scattered with big pointy rocks, and decided that Dave’s white knuckles and pale complexion were a pretty good indication that this was not turning out to be a great idea. We abandoned attempt number two and turned around.
Inspired by the treachery of the waters, Dave decided this was a great time to inspect the bow thruster, which we had busted on our arrival. Donning snorkel gear, away he went. Bad idea. The tidal current was strong (full moon and summer solstice) and soon enough we had the mooring line tightly wrapped around the bow thruster again. After unwrapping it, and thoroughly exhausted fighting the current, Dave returned to the swim ladder to take a break. Chis was terrified at the speed Dave was swept to the swim ladder, and was hollering at him to get out of the water. He would have, except that his right pinky finger became painfully lodged in one of the ladder rungs. It seemed that in the current the finger would be lost. Careful maneuvering, and the poor little thing was freed.
We poured stiff drinks, swore at the bow thruster, and decided to wait for Ft Lauderdale to have it repaired.
Posted by dave at 07:24 AM | Comments (0)
June 19, 2005
Hiking in Exuma Park
Posted by dave at 08:01 AM | Comments (0)
June 18, 2005
N24.2 W76.3 Warderick Wells Cay, Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park
About 10 miles from Warderick Wells Cay, we called the park on the VHF radio to request a mooring (no anchoring in the park). They assigned us #3 in the south mooring field.
The cut is very difficult to find, and without our electronic charts we doubt we ever would have found it. As we entered through the cut, “Bonnie” called us on the radio to offer some advice. He asked if we could turn 53 feet of boat around in a narrow channel. We would have to pick up the mooring facing into the current, which was running north against us. No problem. Dave bragged on the radio about our bow thruster. Chis was on the bow with the boat hook, ready to pick up the mooring. Dave spun the boat around and put it right over the mooring. So close, that the mooring pennant was swept under the boat by the strong current, and proceeded to wrap itself neatly around the bow thruster. At least twice.
Albert from “Bonnie” hopped in his dinghy, and tied a second line to the mooring to secure us from drifting. Dave popped on snorkeling gear and went under the boat to unwrap the pennant from the bow thruster. The current was so strong, he could barely swim against it, with fins on. Successfully unwound from the pennant, Chis suggested we check the bow thruster for damage. Sure enough, the propeller was gone. Stupid bow thruster.
Dave will never brag about the bow thruster again.
We invited Albert, his partner, Linda, and their friend Gary, over to Platina for a couple of drinks at sundown. Lovely people, very helpful. We hope to stay in touch.
The south anchorage (where we are) was allegedly a hangout for pirates. Several small cays carry their names. Teach Rock after Edward Teach (Blackbeard), Ready Rock and Bonney Rocks (named after Mary Read and Anne Bonney, two female pirates of dominant character who wore men’s clothing).
With no fishing in the park, the snorkeling is excellent. At mooring #9 in the north anchorage, there is a burnt sailboat on the bottom, now home to a friendly 5-foot nurse shark. Bubba is a 4-foot barracuda that hangs around under boats and feeds on leftovers. Boo Boo is a 4-foot lemon shark and his 5½ foot brother Harbor Master have taken up residence in the harbour.
Posted by dave at 01:55 PM | Comments (0)
June 17, 2005
N24.0 W76.2 Galliot Cay, Exuma
We left Georgetown well before low tide (the channel is shallow) and began our journey northward to the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park. Two challenges stepped into our path – first, the spedometre was not working again, and second, a massive electrical storm was bearing down on us. The loss of our electronic navigation equipment in the channel would have been devastating.
So, we pulled off to the side of the channel, dropped anchor, fixed the spedometre, waited out the storm, and got fully underway by 10am. We had an uneventful sail. We went through Galliot Cut at high tide, and dropped anchor just ahead of another sailboat. This would be our first experience setting anchor in a current that is stronger than the wind.
No issues setting anchor, with the current setting from the north, and the wind from the west. Then the tidal current shifted to the south, and the winds from the south, then it shifted again, and we were certain that we had wrapped the anchor chain around a few rocks, the keel, the rudder, the propeller, the dinghy, etc.
It was an unpleasant, uncomfortable, rolly-polly night. The currents, the waves, the Atlantic swells, all competing in a tiny little space. At first light, we weighed anchor with no issues (even though we spun around a few times following the chain’s path), and off we went, pounding back through the cut against a fantastically stong current.
Posted by dave at 01:54 PM | Comments (0)
June 14, 2005
Stupid Motor Vessels
We have been stalled with a lack of wind, and an inbound low pressure system promising rain and wind. So we have decided to stay put here in Georgetown, Exuma, where we can get almost everything we need. Our 7-sailing days to Freeport, Grand Bahama will be without internet, groceries, or diesel. Oh, heavens-to-Betsy! Lyons and Tiggers and no Internet, oh my!
On our second trip from town today with jerry cans filled with diesel, we met a young couple who were returning from sailing from Florida to the British Virgin Islands and back. Just out of high school, they were heading back to go to college. How romantic, and lucky that they were able to experience such adventure at their young age. Good for them for being so courageous.
We discovered a big motor vessel had anchored near us since we left. It looked next to us, no, then on our stern, no, then on our bow. We unloaded the diesel, and determined that the RV was in fact 20 feet off the bow. Upwind, in fact. This becomes an important fact.
Emerge the 4 barking dogs, 8 children and umpteen irresponsible adults. Oh, and the smell of belching, burning diesel. For hours. To make matters worse, there were no other boats for half a mile. They could have easily picked a different spot.
So, we poured stiff drinks, and pondered retaliation, with plenty of giggles.
We contemplated blasting the stereo, but, we were downwind, and the effect would have been lost, although we would have danced, giggled, and laughed at their expense.. Maybe testing our flares?
Better still, we could move the boat upwind of them, run the diesel generator all night long, dump the black water tanks (yes, that would be really nasty). Then blast the stereo, set off some flares, use the air horn, etc. etc.
Of course, we are way too polite, and chose to read our books (Chis reads “A Suitable Vengeance” by Elizabeth George, and Dave still reads “Stormy Weather” by Carl Hiassen) instead of causing trouble. Common Canadian virtues of “do the right thing” prevailed. Life is beautiful.
Posted by dave at 01:07 PM | Comments (0)
Chat 'n' Chill
A local beach joint near George Town has become a new hangout for us. Closer to where we are anchored than the town, it is quite the fun spot (except on weekends when it is a zoo). Check it out at www.chatnchill.com
We have learned that George Town is called Chicken Harbour by yotties. Boats stay forever waiting for good weather to head south to the Caribbean. Great! We love it anyway.
Posted by dave at 12:44 PM | Comments (0)
June 12, 2005
Silly Dave 2
Posted by dave at 01:58 PM | Comments (0)
Silly Dave
Posted by dave at 01:57 PM | Comments (0)
June 10, 2005
Tropical Storm Arlene
Rest assured, we are well east of Arlene. In case you have been neglecting your CNN watching, she was upgraded late yesterday from a tropical depression to a tropical storm, and is headed north across the western tip of Cuba into the Gulf of Mexico. She is predicted to hit Florida’s gulf coast. We watch her carefully, and are plugged in to the National Hurricane Prediction Center in Miami. We have identified a hurricane hole if she proceeds our way. (A hurricane hole is a tight lagoon, sand bottom, and shallow. We would drive the keel right into the sand, set four anchors, and tie into the trees on shore. Then check into a hotel and wait it out.)
Meanwhile, we watch local weather patterns closely, and our tucking into Exuma has been a blessing. This is what we worked hard to get here for – a little protection in the event of bad weather. The winds are picking up, and we are considering a second anchor. Very overcast today with rain and thunderstorms in the forecast. There is a trough moving our way for Tuesday, which we will watch carefully, and act, as usual, very conservatively.
Posted by dave at 01:42 PM | Comments (0)
June 09, 2005
Squall Approaching - Bahamas
Posted by dave at 01:43 PM | Comments (1)
N23.3 W75.4 Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, Bahamas
Our passage to Georgetown was uneventful, with plenty of wind. Our expected arrival time was 4pm, and we entered the treacherous channel at 1pm. We got on the radio to request a pilot to guide us through the reefs, coral heads and rocks. Nobody responded. My goodness, what are we doing in the Bahamas with a 7’3” draft?!
We safely anchored about a mile from Georgetown, and Dave hopped in the dinghy to clear us in through customs and immigration (only one can go ashore). The wind had picked up to 25 knots, and the bounce was incredible. The guide books suggested tying up at the government dock, which Dave could easily do, but could barely reach the dock 10 feet above his head. Alas, it was low tide. And he’s short. So, he carried on and found a narrow cut through the rocks to Lake Victoria. Ahhhh, no more chop, bounce and crash. Safely tied up next to the local grocery store, Dave proceeded to clear in. Easy, peazy, lemon squeazy.
The sign on the door of Immigration said plainly “KNOCK FIRST. DO NOT ENTER UNTIL GRANTED PERMISSION”. Dave knocked. No answer. He knocked again, louder this time. “Come in”. She was on the phone, planning her weekend. Dave waited, watching the unusually huge TV on a shelf in the corner. Teeny tiny office, huge TV. Not CNN, but a soap opera. It turns out we will have to go back tomorrow because she forgot her stamp at home.
Dave called Chis on the radio to say we had cleared in (except for passports, of course). A few important errands and he’d be on his way.
Secretly, Dave was just happy to see PEOPLE that didn’t look like Chis!
A short distance from the government buildings, Dave wandered into the liquor store to get some vino for dinner. The local beer is called Kalik. Didn’t buy any, but got a lesson in pronunciation: like ‘Klik’, very soft on the ‘a’. Not like ‘Gaelic’, which made the cashier’s eyes roll back in her head. Dave paid, and left quickly.
Next stop, the grocery. OH MY GOD! FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES! Okay, Dave admits that he gets stressed without a daily dose of serious fruit and veg. This was paradise. Leeks, celery, carrots, spinach, oranges, plantain, etc. Very exciting! First fruit and veg since the Virgin Islands (2 weeks). The mushrooms had “no code”, which set off a conspiracy investigation. Dave said “no code, must be free, hah, hah”. The endrogenous, unhappy cashier said “nothing in this place is free”. When the floor runner announced the “code”, she/he plugged it in and it was 8oz mushrooms, not 12oz. This set off the next conspiracy investigation. Dave tried to make the situation worse by saying “it must be free”. She/he finally laughed, probably frustrated with his glib sense of humour. Dave paid, and left quickly.
Next stop, fill the dinghy gas tank. Chis thinks someone in the Dominican Republic siphoned some gas from the tank when we were in town. Dave was embarrassed asking the local gas station attendant to fill the wee tank. He said “what are you kiddin’, gas here is @#^&%$ expensive”. US$9 later for a little over a litre, and Dave understood why the attendant had bloodshot, crossed-eyes.
Posted by dave at 01:41 PM | Comments (0)
June 08, 2005
N23.4 W74.6 Sandy Point, Rum Cay, Bahamas
Well, well, well… We were on our approach to Port Nelson, Rum Cay and decided to radio one of the local marinas to find out if Port Nelson was a port of entry. Zut alors, non! So we decided to bow out of the dodgy anchorage in Port Nelson, with scattered coral heads and rocks, and head for the much rollier, pollier Sandy Point. Couldn’t be that bad, the local fishing boat anchored behind us for the night.
Dave woke at 4am, having slept nadda, cranky and desperate to get to a safe, protected anchorage. So, up at 6am, and we were on our way. Exuma bound. There, will we find respite, safe harbour, GROCERIES, cash, CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION, and some time out.
Posted by dave at 01:41 PM | Comments (0)
June 07, 2005
Bird Rock Light, Crooked Island, Bahamas
Posted by dave at 01:46 PM | Comments (0)
N22.5 W74.2 Landrail Point, Crooked Island, Bahamas
Several days ago, we began receiving weather reports of tropical waves (precursors to tropical depressions, which can become tropical storms, which can become hurricanes) south of us, and big stalled fronts north of us. Our planning has been driven primarily by these reports. But, the reports were wrong today. No wind. 20 knots predicted, but no wind! So we motor-sailed to Crooked Island. The island is populated with Seventh Day Adventists, so no liquor or tobacco is sold. Too bad, because we still cannot leave the boat because we are in quarantine, having not yet cleared customs.
Posted by dave at 01:40 PM | Comments (0)
June 06, 2005
2 Guys, a Boat, and 6,000 Nautical Miles
So, just what is 6,000 nautical miles, in Canadian landlubber’s context?
The circumference of the earth at the equator is approximately 21,600 nautical miles. This means we have covered the equivalent of roughly 27% of the earth!
The distance from St John’s, Newfoundland to Vancouver, B.C. (as the crow flies) is approximately 3,000 nautical miles. So, we have sailed from one end of Canada to the other!
Not bad for a couple of guys, a beautiful boat, a little courage, and lots of wind.
Posted by dave at 01:40 PM | Comments (0)
N22.4 W73.4 West Plana Cay, Bahamas
We are just a few miles south of where recent National Geographic articles have suggested is THE place Columbus made first landfall in the New World. At a place called Samana Cay. All anchorages on Samana Cay are too shallow for our keel, so we will miss that historical place.
My goodness, West Plana Cay is gorgeous! Long white sand beach, turquoise water, big coral heads, nice breeze, no mosquitoes (yet). We are yet again all alone. No other boats in site, although a wee fishing boat passed our bow shortly after we arrived, and a sailboat sailed past.
We passed 6,000 nautical miles today and had a hurrah and cheer. We realized that almost half of those miles have been done by the two of us without crew. We are proud of ourselves.
Off tomorrow morning for Crooked Island, then on to Rum Cay on Wednesday, and finally George Town, Great Exuma Island where we will chill for several days, reprovision, clean the boat (and ourselves), and plan the next leg of our adventure.
Posted by dave at 01:39 PM | Comments (0)
June 05, 2005
N22.3 W73.1 Northwest Point, Mayaguana Island, Bahamas
We left Cockburn Harbour, South Caicos in lots of wind for our third overnight sail. This was to be our last all-nighter until our crossing from Grand Bahama Island to Fort Lauderdale later this month (we look forward to South Florida, where we will go to see movies, shop in great grocery stores, and see PEOPLE). It was uneventful. We arrived around noon, dropped anchor and tried to reach Customs and Immigration on the radio. No answer. Sleep depravation set in, and we slept, and slept, and then slept some more. Dave awoke to Chis’ cursing about our laptop that has decided to give up. Good thing we have the crappy old backup computer. The hoards of mosquitoes woke us at 4am. It was time to move on. Just 60 nautical miles (8 to 10 hours) due south of the Tropic of Cancer (where we need to be to be covered by our insurance).
Posted by dave at 01:38 PM | Comments (0)